This is a typical example of how difficult a very simple task can be made: trying to mail some clothes to someone as a baby present.
Found correos. Tried to buy box for clothes at correos. No boxes at correos. Woman at correos said something something blah blah caja al floreria. Went to floreria. No cajas there. Woman at floreria said something something blah blah el fundo dereche. Went to the end of the line of shops and found cajaria (why don't they just have them at the f'ing correos???) Told woman that the caja she thought I needed was too big. She proceeded to cram stuff into caja and in doing so ripped the card. I tried to tell her that I should get the caja for free because she ruined my card (no quiero pagar porque TU molestared mi tarjeta!) Of course, she no intiende. i said I wanted to organize the stuff before I taped it up. She said a bunch of stuff-possibly her family history-which was then translated for me as "not in here, not enough room." Okay. Went outside to organize stuff. Bought box, but found out they have no foam peanuts or other stuff. I asked (with gestures) if they tape it there. Yes. She handed me a role of tape. I sighed. I then realized that I didn't have the address anyway, so I would have to go home, then come back. Walked home, via the swings and panaderia. Got home, got cute blonde baby out of stroller. Cute blonde baby drank some milk, then spit up on clothes I was going to send in the mail. Put clothes in laundry room and told nana they needed to be washed but not put away. Sighed again. Ate some chocolate. Got misty eyed at thought of going to UPS store with nice chinese guy, boxes, and foam peanuts (and cards) all together. Sighed.
For those readers who are not as fluent in Spanish as I am (ha ha), here are some definiitions: cajas = boxes, dereche=right (well, it's either dereche or derecha or derecho. whatever), correos = post office, nana = maid,
Monday, December 29, 2008
Thursday, December 25, 2008
foreign cuisine
I had planned all along to make empanadas for Thanksgiving (but our stuff arrived from the US the day before, so that didn't happen), then it got moved to Christmas. And now the season of noel is upon us, and yet our home is not filled with the savory scent of baking empanadas. Por que? Porque yo estoy sick of trying to cook here!!!
It started with the idea of giving people fudge for Christmas. My mom created the world's easiest fudge recipe-you use 5 ingredients and cook it in the microwave. It's very tasty as well, but...nothing can be that easy in Chile. First I couldn't find baking chocolate, but I did find marshmallows (though flavored with vanilla), and what I thought was canned milk. I also got a bit confused about the difference between butter (manteca in my book), margarine (margarina), and shortening (which is apparently also sometimes called manteca, as I found out after I bought some).
So I tried to use the manteca (which was shortening, not butter) because I have always preferred the taste of things made with butter over margarine. And I used chopped up Hershey's chocolate bars, because chocolate chips don't exist here. And the vanilla marshmallows, and "probably" canned milk. Really, the sugar was the only thing I was certain of.
The first batch came out very goopy, like it didn't have enough marshmallows. So I made another batch, but with more marshmallows. The consistency was better, but it didn't really taste chocolaty enough. So I figured maybe the chocolate was wrong, and I decided to look harder for baker's chocolate with less milk in it. I also looked for non-flavored marshmallows, because the vanilla didn't seem like a good addition.
After a trip to the market, I was re-energized and ready to try again. So I did, with my bowls, and big wooden spoon, but to no avail. The third batch was also goopy, though more chocolaty. I decided the marshmallows must be the offending culprite, because though the recipe calls for marshmallow fluff (and I have a better chance of finding Diet Dr. Pepper than that), I was melting down marshmallows instead. Batch number 4 was given extra marshmallows, and I used the good chocolate, and it tasted good, but basically like very chocolaty flavored marshmallow.
So I gave up. We did figure out, though, that everyone here gives the security people Christmas gifts, so I felt compelled to make something for them. I tried to make some cookies, but overbaked them so they are unfit for gifting.
I did manage to make blueberry pancakes for breakfast this morning, and a nice shrimp dish for dinner last night, with coconut milk and ginger, but my chef's hat has been deflated enough by the fudge-making experience that I just don't feel up to trying with the empanadas right now. Maybe for New Year's, or Valentine's, or Easter. But not today.
It started with the idea of giving people fudge for Christmas. My mom created the world's easiest fudge recipe-you use 5 ingredients and cook it in the microwave. It's very tasty as well, but...nothing can be that easy in Chile. First I couldn't find baking chocolate, but I did find marshmallows (though flavored with vanilla), and what I thought was canned milk. I also got a bit confused about the difference between butter (manteca in my book), margarine (margarina), and shortening (which is apparently also sometimes called manteca, as I found out after I bought some).
So I tried to use the manteca (which was shortening, not butter) because I have always preferred the taste of things made with butter over margarine. And I used chopped up Hershey's chocolate bars, because chocolate chips don't exist here. And the vanilla marshmallows, and "probably" canned milk. Really, the sugar was the only thing I was certain of.
The first batch came out very goopy, like it didn't have enough marshmallows. So I made another batch, but with more marshmallows. The consistency was better, but it didn't really taste chocolaty enough. So I figured maybe the chocolate was wrong, and I decided to look harder for baker's chocolate with less milk in it. I also looked for non-flavored marshmallows, because the vanilla didn't seem like a good addition.
After a trip to the market, I was re-energized and ready to try again. So I did, with my bowls, and big wooden spoon, but to no avail. The third batch was also goopy, though more chocolaty. I decided the marshmallows must be the offending culprite, because though the recipe calls for marshmallow fluff (and I have a better chance of finding Diet Dr. Pepper than that), I was melting down marshmallows instead. Batch number 4 was given extra marshmallows, and I used the good chocolate, and it tasted good, but basically like very chocolaty flavored marshmallow.
So I gave up. We did figure out, though, that everyone here gives the security people Christmas gifts, so I felt compelled to make something for them. I tried to make some cookies, but overbaked them so they are unfit for gifting.
I did manage to make blueberry pancakes for breakfast this morning, and a nice shrimp dish for dinner last night, with coconut milk and ginger, but my chef's hat has been deflated enough by the fudge-making experience that I just don't feel up to trying with the empanadas right now. Maybe for New Year's, or Valentine's, or Easter. But not today.
Thursday, November 20, 2008
i'm on the wrong setting
Sometimes I feel that living in another country is like being a machine that's on the wrong setting for what it's being asked to do. I expect things to be a certain way, and when they don't happen that way, it's simply very frustrating. I knew coming here that things would be different, but I didn't expect that how people respond to everyday situations emotionally would be that different. And it's not drastically different, but just enough so that I feel like I'm not in sync with my surroundings.
For example, people here drive like they are going to DIE if they don't get somewhere in the next 2 seconds. I understand urgency, and even road rage when you are pressed to get somewhere and sitting in traffic, but people honk at other cars when their car can't go anywhere. If someone is in a lane, and they can't go because someone is doing something in front of them, it doesn't make sense for cars behind the whole thing to honk hysterically. This morning I was at a green light, and there was a huge sign that said you could only turn left with a green arrow. But the woman behind me was basically pissing herself because I wouldn't go. And she gave me all these dirty looks when she whipped around me later. Sorry, chica, no voy ir cuando no puedo parati!
So, driving can be a pain. I still prefer driving to buses, or walking, but it's additionally difficult I think because of its juxtaposition to everything else, which barely moves at all, much less quickly. I swear I have spent more time here standing in line at checkouts than doing anything else. People have zero sense of urgency unless they are driving, and then it's in overdrive.
I think I feel displaced, because I apply the sense of urgency to everything, and I get frustrated when most things take forever, but people expect me to change lanes in .00002 seconds.
It worries me, because the attitude when driving seems to be to ignore everyone else, and just push your way wherever you want to go. And honk at everyone who gets close to you and threatens to thwart your high-speed chase pace. I find myself becoming like that, but I am transferring it to how I deal with people in general. Going back to checkout lanes, people don't care if you have a fussy baby and a cartload of stuff. They bolt in front of you to get in line, or expect you to reverse the stroller in a small space so they can walk through first.
Driving hme from shopping today, feeling disgruntled at the people of Santiago, I was thinking today that the moniker "ugly American" seems to be a misplaced label. I don't think Americans act this way at all. Well, sometimes, but not in general. I worry that I don't act this way towards people that way now, but in 2 years I will. I will become an ugly American because I left America.
Speaking of leaving America, our stuff, which left some time ago, has yet to make an appearance. The government workers, including customs officials, are on strike, so our stuff is sitting at the port. So we are sleeping on a futon mattress on the floor, and we have no tables. But, such is life. It's not the end of the world, and everyone who comes down here goes through it, blah blah blah. Knowing that doesn't make me want my stuff any less.
We are in our new apartment, of which I will post pix soon. Until then, I am going to take a nap so I will be prepared to face another outing in the wild wilderness of the Santiago streets later.
For example, people here drive like they are going to DIE if they don't get somewhere in the next 2 seconds. I understand urgency, and even road rage when you are pressed to get somewhere and sitting in traffic, but people honk at other cars when their car can't go anywhere. If someone is in a lane, and they can't go because someone is doing something in front of them, it doesn't make sense for cars behind the whole thing to honk hysterically. This morning I was at a green light, and there was a huge sign that said you could only turn left with a green arrow. But the woman behind me was basically pissing herself because I wouldn't go. And she gave me all these dirty looks when she whipped around me later. Sorry, chica, no voy ir cuando no puedo parati!
So, driving can be a pain. I still prefer driving to buses, or walking, but it's additionally difficult I think because of its juxtaposition to everything else, which barely moves at all, much less quickly. I swear I have spent more time here standing in line at checkouts than doing anything else. People have zero sense of urgency unless they are driving, and then it's in overdrive.
I think I feel displaced, because I apply the sense of urgency to everything, and I get frustrated when most things take forever, but people expect me to change lanes in .00002 seconds.
It worries me, because the attitude when driving seems to be to ignore everyone else, and just push your way wherever you want to go. And honk at everyone who gets close to you and threatens to thwart your high-speed chase pace. I find myself becoming like that, but I am transferring it to how I deal with people in general. Going back to checkout lanes, people don't care if you have a fussy baby and a cartload of stuff. They bolt in front of you to get in line, or expect you to reverse the stroller in a small space so they can walk through first.
Driving hme from shopping today, feeling disgruntled at the people of Santiago, I was thinking today that the moniker "ugly American" seems to be a misplaced label. I don't think Americans act this way at all. Well, sometimes, but not in general. I worry that I don't act this way towards people that way now, but in 2 years I will. I will become an ugly American because I left America.
Speaking of leaving America, our stuff, which left some time ago, has yet to make an appearance. The government workers, including customs officials, are on strike, so our stuff is sitting at the port. So we are sleeping on a futon mattress on the floor, and we have no tables. But, such is life. It's not the end of the world, and everyone who comes down here goes through it, blah blah blah. Knowing that doesn't make me want my stuff any less.
We are in our new apartment, of which I will post pix soon. Until then, I am going to take a nap so I will be prepared to face another outing in the wild wilderness of the Santiago streets later.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
from the outside looking in
I keep a running list of things I am going to buy, mostly at The Kingdom of Target, when we go back to visit the US next June. Yesterday when I was at the grocery store, I started thinking about things they have here, but not in the US. So here's my imagined reaction of a Chilean who is visiting the US for the first time, and what they will put on their list of things to buy at HiperLider.
Why do I have to get out of my car to pump gas? And wash my own windshield? I guess you can find places that have full service, but they cost more, and they are sometimes hard to find. In fact, where are the people at intersections on the street who will wash my windshield for whatever money I give them? And why isn't anyone standing on the street selling water, or sodas? What if you get thirsty? You have to get out of your car, or find a place with a drive-thru, like AutoMac (or AutoKing)? There is also no one selling ice cream at the bus stops, or strawberries, asparagus, or brussel sprouts. And when I sit at the red lights, there's no entertainment. In Santiago, people juggle, dance, and even eat fire, for as much or little money as I want to give. You can also buy a newspaper while waiting for the light to turn green, as well as a cell phone charger, toys, gum, and candy.
And while we're on the subject of being in your car, why do people drive so slowly here? Do they have no place to go? They wait around for an invitation to change lanes, too. Dios mio, people, push your way over and step on it! I won't even go into the lack of available cabs and buses. They may be crowded in Santiago, but at least they are everywhere.
Everyone here talks about how great the soda (pop) is, but I'm not convinced it's that great. Dr. Pepper has twenty different flavors, but that means you cannot taste any one of them! Where's the Bilz, the Pap, and the Coke Light (Diet Coke is so not the same thing). Where are the great little cookies that come in gold wrappers near the checkout? Where is the Quatro, and the water con gas? The bread here is horrible! All they have are packages of bread; where are the giant bins with very fresh bread? They have a few pieces of that here, but it's not that fresh. And there are two kinds, instead of twenty or thirty. And the fish-it's a disgrace. Why can't I go to the supermarket, pick out a whole fish, and have them fillet it perfectly for me to cook? And when I ask to have the head, they look at me like I am crazy.
They have one, maybe two kinds of pisco, and it's very expensive. And there are no pre-mixed bottles of Pisco Sours. The wine is pretty good in some places, but you can't get a good bottle for $2 or $3 like you can "back home." And why is the milk in the refrigerator? It's going to last only a few days like that. Why don't they have heat-treated milk in cartons that lasts for weeks? I don't want to go buy milk every 2 days!
Some things seem the same, but they're just not. The deli meat is not as fresh. The produce is good when it's in season, but it's very expensive. I miss chirimollas, and nisperos, and the different, very hot peppers that I can't find here.
Shopping in general is different. At the malls in Santiago, you can do everything-pay bills, mail letters, get your pants hemmed, buy clothes, and most malls are next to a grocery store, and even a Sodimac (like Home Depot). So I could get everything done with one stop. But here I have to wander all over to find the right stores.
Ah, but I guess there are things nice about his strange place. People here don't appreciate soccer, but they do care a lot about sports. The odd sauces that they put on meats are actually pretty tasty, and you can usually find a lot of different kinds of restaurants. The restaurants don't close in the middle of the day, so if I want to eat lunch late or early, I can. And even though most Americans can't make empanadas, or mix a decent pisco sour, they are generally friendly, and willing to talk endlessly about just about anything.
And, of course, there is Target here.
Why do I have to get out of my car to pump gas? And wash my own windshield? I guess you can find places that have full service, but they cost more, and they are sometimes hard to find. In fact, where are the people at intersections on the street who will wash my windshield for whatever money I give them? And why isn't anyone standing on the street selling water, or sodas? What if you get thirsty? You have to get out of your car, or find a place with a drive-thru, like AutoMac (or AutoKing)? There is also no one selling ice cream at the bus stops, or strawberries, asparagus, or brussel sprouts. And when I sit at the red lights, there's no entertainment. In Santiago, people juggle, dance, and even eat fire, for as much or little money as I want to give. You can also buy a newspaper while waiting for the light to turn green, as well as a cell phone charger, toys, gum, and candy.
And while we're on the subject of being in your car, why do people drive so slowly here? Do they have no place to go? They wait around for an invitation to change lanes, too. Dios mio, people, push your way over and step on it! I won't even go into the lack of available cabs and buses. They may be crowded in Santiago, but at least they are everywhere.
Everyone here talks about how great the soda (pop) is, but I'm not convinced it's that great. Dr. Pepper has twenty different flavors, but that means you cannot taste any one of them! Where's the Bilz, the Pap, and the Coke Light (Diet Coke is so not the same thing). Where are the great little cookies that come in gold wrappers near the checkout? Where is the Quatro, and the water con gas? The bread here is horrible! All they have are packages of bread; where are the giant bins with very fresh bread? They have a few pieces of that here, but it's not that fresh. And there are two kinds, instead of twenty or thirty. And the fish-it's a disgrace. Why can't I go to the supermarket, pick out a whole fish, and have them fillet it perfectly for me to cook? And when I ask to have the head, they look at me like I am crazy.
They have one, maybe two kinds of pisco, and it's very expensive. And there are no pre-mixed bottles of Pisco Sours. The wine is pretty good in some places, but you can't get a good bottle for $2 or $3 like you can "back home." And why is the milk in the refrigerator? It's going to last only a few days like that. Why don't they have heat-treated milk in cartons that lasts for weeks? I don't want to go buy milk every 2 days!
Some things seem the same, but they're just not. The deli meat is not as fresh. The produce is good when it's in season, but it's very expensive. I miss chirimollas, and nisperos, and the different, very hot peppers that I can't find here.
Shopping in general is different. At the malls in Santiago, you can do everything-pay bills, mail letters, get your pants hemmed, buy clothes, and most malls are next to a grocery store, and even a Sodimac (like Home Depot). So I could get everything done with one stop. But here I have to wander all over to find the right stores.
Ah, but I guess there are things nice about his strange place. People here don't appreciate soccer, but they do care a lot about sports. The odd sauces that they put on meats are actually pretty tasty, and you can usually find a lot of different kinds of restaurants. The restaurants don't close in the middle of the day, so if I want to eat lunch late or early, I can. And even though most Americans can't make empanadas, or mix a decent pisco sour, they are generally friendly, and willing to talk endlessly about just about anything.
And, of course, there is Target here.
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
I thought I lost my wallet...
I was convinced that I threw it in the trash after we cleaned out the car yesterday, when we got home from a bbq (and, of course, yesterday was trash day). Turns out, getting things replaced here would not have been that difficult. Someone had already ordered me a new RUT card (id) and bank cards. But getting a new driver's license from CA? Impossible. Even though I just renewed it in January, I would have to go to the dmv in person, fill out a form, give them fingerprints, and then have them mail it to me. At a US address. Uh, I don't live in the US anymore...
The reason my driver's license is so important? If I don't have it, I have to take the driving test here to get a Chilean driver's license. In Spanish. I know some words, but not enough to take a freaking driving test. And as far as I can tell, there are basically no traffic laws here except "drive as fast as possible at all times and get the hell out of the way." Which is how I drive anyway, so I love driving here, but still. Oh, and "no left turns." You can drive for miles sometimes before there's not a sign prohibiting left turns. I've yet to figure out why, and I've made a lot of illegal left turns (I found out that with a diplomatic card, you don't get tickets or thrown in jail).
When I thought my license was gone forever, along with my freedom in a car, we headed to Applebee's to drown our sorrows in the muy fuerte margaritas. But then I found it on the way there, wedged under the seat, so we were going to celebrate. I will say that looking for it without holding a 23 lb. baby in one arm was much easier.
Cute blonde baby seemed happy that we were going out to dinner for whatever reason. And why wouldn't she? The wait staff dotes on her like she's a princess. Something that I've noticed here is that men are much more child-oriented than in the US. When we would go shopping there, lots of women would talk to her and coo at her, but hardly any men. Here, it's both. And men seem to go more over the top with it, stroking her cheek, picking her up, and talking to her in Spanish. She eats it up and does her little smile with her teeth (8!) clicking together. Just what I need-moving here is going to turn her into a little flirt.
Oh, and yes I know it's a bit lame that Applebee's is our "place to go." But local restaurants don't serve dinner until 9 or 10, when cute blonde baby is in bed. So we have to go with what's open. And we know the menu, so it's comfortable, and the staff there is really just very, very nice.
The reason my driver's license is so important? If I don't have it, I have to take the driving test here to get a Chilean driver's license. In Spanish. I know some words, but not enough to take a freaking driving test. And as far as I can tell, there are basically no traffic laws here except "drive as fast as possible at all times and get the hell out of the way." Which is how I drive anyway, so I love driving here, but still. Oh, and "no left turns." You can drive for miles sometimes before there's not a sign prohibiting left turns. I've yet to figure out why, and I've made a lot of illegal left turns (I found out that with a diplomatic card, you don't get tickets or thrown in jail).
When I thought my license was gone forever, along with my freedom in a car, we headed to Applebee's to drown our sorrows in the muy fuerte margaritas. But then I found it on the way there, wedged under the seat, so we were going to celebrate. I will say that looking for it without holding a 23 lb. baby in one arm was much easier.
Cute blonde baby seemed happy that we were going out to dinner for whatever reason. And why wouldn't she? The wait staff dotes on her like she's a princess. Something that I've noticed here is that men are much more child-oriented than in the US. When we would go shopping there, lots of women would talk to her and coo at her, but hardly any men. Here, it's both. And men seem to go more over the top with it, stroking her cheek, picking her up, and talking to her in Spanish. She eats it up and does her little smile with her teeth (8!) clicking together. Just what I need-moving here is going to turn her into a little flirt.
Oh, and yes I know it's a bit lame that Applebee's is our "place to go." But local restaurants don't serve dinner until 9 or 10, when cute blonde baby is in bed. So we have to go with what's open. And we know the menu, so it's comfortable, and the staff there is really just very, very nice.
Monday, November 10, 2008
buying cars, making friends, first steps
So we have been told that our "stuff" is supposed to arrive on November 19th. That is assuming that the slow boat it is on isn't captured by pirates, and that the dockworkers at the Panama Canal don't go on strike, and that the truck drivers here in Chile feel like getting it to Santiago. The chances of all these things working out in the next 10 days? I'm thinking pretty unlikely. And I'll probably have a full body cavity search just so they'll unload my dishes, because security here is NO JOKE. Every house has a gate, every apartment building a doorman, every parking lot an attendant. We had to do fingerprints to get a cell phone. But I wonder-does everyone have to do that, or just sketchy-looking Americans with cute blonde babies?
Speaking of, cute blonde baby decided that it's time to start walking! Yesterday afternoon she took about 8 steps, then 4 more later. Today she's decided that was enough, and crawling is still much faster, but it was pretty exciting. We got some video, no pictures, and did lots of clapping for her. We go to the park and hang out w/ other babies and the other moms ask me if I'm sure she's only 9 months old. She's still very big for her age, with 8 teeth, but I figure it's okay. She'll go to pre-school and stomp on the other kids and I'll be called in for a conference. Cute blonde baby the bully.
So-enough bragging about the baby-back to our drama with buying things. To buy a car, you have to go and look at cars, figure out how much $ you need, go to your bank and beg for a loan for that much $, go back to the dealership with a check for the money (but only after the bank people have had a meeting and decided whether or not to give you any money), give the dealership half the money, then go back to the bank and get the other half, give that to the dealership, and then, 3-5 days later, go pick up your car. There's no going to the dealership and picking up your car the same day. But, it is what it is. I like to notice the differences, because it's how I feel I get to know a place.
There are more social events here now that we've settled a bit and we know people. That's been helpful for feeling like we belong here a bit better. A lovely British woman gave me a lesson in how to make tea properly, so if we have people over I won't have to heat water for their tea in a microwave. We went to a food festival at the International School, which was nice (and delicious-especially at the Turkey booth. Say what you want about the Turks. They may, historically, have been barbarians, but they can cook). And we went to a bbq (no sauce:( at a park in the wine region west of here.
Halloweeen was an interesting event. Kids of people in the wealthier neighborhoods dress up and trick-or-treat, but everyone else mostly views Halloween as an American holiday that is not part of their culture. The poor cannot afford to do it, and older people don't "get it." We tried to dress Vivi up as a ladybug, but she screamed, but she was willing to wear an orange shirt, black pants, and a pumpkin hat. We went to the park and saw all the other kids dressed up, but go not trick-or-treaters.
One of the best things about Santiago has to be the parks. There are open spaces everywhere, and people spend time outside, sitting, eating, and kids playing. I like that part of the culture, and I worry that when we move back to the US, Vivi will become more of an American kid (watching tv and playing video games instead of playing outside). Of course, we can encourage her to play outside, but she will want to do what other kids do....That, and the fact that the International School here is very good are making me start to think that it would be nice to stay.
But we'll see what next week brings...
Speaking of, cute blonde baby decided that it's time to start walking! Yesterday afternoon she took about 8 steps, then 4 more later. Today she's decided that was enough, and crawling is still much faster, but it was pretty exciting. We got some video, no pictures, and did lots of clapping for her. We go to the park and hang out w/ other babies and the other moms ask me if I'm sure she's only 9 months old. She's still very big for her age, with 8 teeth, but I figure it's okay. She'll go to pre-school and stomp on the other kids and I'll be called in for a conference. Cute blonde baby the bully.
So-enough bragging about the baby-back to our drama with buying things. To buy a car, you have to go and look at cars, figure out how much $ you need, go to your bank and beg for a loan for that much $, go back to the dealership with a check for the money (but only after the bank people have had a meeting and decided whether or not to give you any money), give the dealership half the money, then go back to the bank and get the other half, give that to the dealership, and then, 3-5 days later, go pick up your car. There's no going to the dealership and picking up your car the same day. But, it is what it is. I like to notice the differences, because it's how I feel I get to know a place.
There are more social events here now that we've settled a bit and we know people. That's been helpful for feeling like we belong here a bit better. A lovely British woman gave me a lesson in how to make tea properly, so if we have people over I won't have to heat water for their tea in a microwave. We went to a food festival at the International School, which was nice (and delicious-especially at the Turkey booth. Say what you want about the Turks. They may, historically, have been barbarians, but they can cook). And we went to a bbq (no sauce:( at a park in the wine region west of here.
Halloweeen was an interesting event. Kids of people in the wealthier neighborhoods dress up and trick-or-treat, but everyone else mostly views Halloween as an American holiday that is not part of their culture. The poor cannot afford to do it, and older people don't "get it." We tried to dress Vivi up as a ladybug, but she screamed, but she was willing to wear an orange shirt, black pants, and a pumpkin hat. We went to the park and saw all the other kids dressed up, but go not trick-or-treaters.
One of the best things about Santiago has to be the parks. There are open spaces everywhere, and people spend time outside, sitting, eating, and kids playing. I like that part of the culture, and I worry that when we move back to the US, Vivi will become more of an American kid (watching tv and playing video games instead of playing outside). Of course, we can encourage her to play outside, but she will want to do what other kids do....That, and the fact that the International School here is very good are making me start to think that it would be nice to stay.
But we'll see what next week brings...
Monday, October 27, 2008
I now understand
Not a damn thing about Chile, of course. Other than the fact that they use eighteen sentences to say "Can I see your ID?" and that returning anything to a store is more complicated than surgery. I understand why people gravitate back to their home countries, even when they spend most of their breath speaking badly of them. I understand that even though you know that "your country" has its host of problems, it's still where you belong.
HAPPY HALLOWEEN!
I left the US glad to be away for a while from the entitlement, political correctness, media drama about celebrities, badly-behaved children, bad parenting, and processed food.
What I wasn't prepared for is how used to these things I actually am, and how they do in some ways benefit me. Children may not always behave in the US, but they are raised most of the time by their parents, not nannies. Children may have melt-downs at Super Target, but it's often because women work and have to take their children with them after a long day at work. So when we are out with Vivi, and she gets tired, or fed up w/ being in her stroller, people don't look at us with sympathy, because we've both had a long day. They wonder why I didn't leave her with the nanny and go shopping on my own. Or, stay at home with her and send the maid to the store.
People feeling entitled means that stores and restaurants know that people expect to get what they pay for. Which means when you buy a product, and it breaks, you return it for your money or a new one. Ahhhhaaa! laugh the retailers of Santiago. "We'll call you next week." That's what you're told when you have a problem.
A major issue in the US right now is health care. But let me tell you, it's not so bad. Last week, I went to the dr. with a urinary tract infection. I knew I had one, because I had a litmus test you can buy at drug stores in the US. The doctor took my temperature by putting his hand on my forehead and had me urinate in a bedpan so he could "take a look at it." I did get antibiotics, but it seemed a bit, well, non-medical, to me.
But the thing is this: I am sure that people who are from here are fine with it, and if they live in the US, they may find the medical care impersonal (I guess taking someone's temperature w/ a thermometer is a bit impersonal, even if it is under the tongue).
It's the little things-the fact that you pay for parking before you get in your car, not at the gate, having to have produce and bread weighed before checking out at the supermercado, having to get a ticket with a number for EVERYTHING, even if no one else is in line, that make me feel like I don't belong here. People are nice enough, even if they do blather on and speak way too fast. But I'm just not used to the systems. And I think that's what people miss when they live away from home-systems that they are used to. Not having to think about everything. Not having to search for words to say that you did something yesterday, because all the verbs you know are in present tense.
So even though the US has many flaws, I know I will be glad when we go back. Because I am a flawed product of its systems, which I now understand.
HAPPY HALLOWEEN!Monday, October 20, 2008
ventures in Valpo, Mercado Central
Last weekend we ventured out to the Mercado Central in Santiago on Saturday and to Valparaiso on the coast on Sunday. We took the subway to the market, which was no easy feat with a baby, her stroller, and all her crap. But the subway was pretty good-clean, with lots of shops in the stations (not just kiosks with gum and soda, but real shops). And having a cute blonde baby with you does help in getting a seat on a jampackedwithpeople train.First we looked around the fish market, which also has restaurants and other stands, with herbs and some vegetables. It's an enclosed building, so the fish must be really fresh, or we would have died from the smell. We have seen dogs all over Santaigo, but no cats. It's because they're all hanging out at the fish market.
Behind the fish market building, there is a pedestrian mall where there are lots of stores, street performers, and people
just hanging out. We saw Barney (did NOT take Vivi to talk to him. Stupid purple dinosaur), a Barney knock-off, and some people dancing around promoting-religion? dancing? and handing out cookies (which we did not eat). Beyond this is the Plaza de Armas. It has lots of trees, a nice fountain in the middle, and giant, intrusive, orange light poles all over it. I thought it would be really nice without the light poles, but I'm guessing my input is not desired at this time. We wandered into the church (did not take pix, even though others were, because I think it's rude when people are praying), dipped Vivi's feet in the fountain, and said hello to Spider Man.
The mammals got in on the picture action by the fountain as well. Before we left, we realized that on the other side of the river, there is a vegetable and flower market. We wandered through briefly, but we were getting tired, and we still had to haul cute blonde baby and all her stuff back through the subway, and then home from the station.
Next time, we will explore further to see what we missed, and maybe get brave enough to buy some fish.
Water didn't look too gross, but didn't seem like a good idea to stick her hands in, which she would immediately put in her mouth.
Before she got freaked out and reached for mom.
Mammals by fountain in Plaza de Armas.
Vineyards along the highway on the drive from Santiago to Valparaiso. There are also TONS of yellow poppies, which remind us of California.
View of port/harbor from one of the hills in Valparaiso.
We took an acensor (outdoor elevator) up the hill. It was built in 1882. I think Vivi's expression means, "Uh, mom, are you sure this is safe?"
Valparaiso is all about walking around the hilly cobblestone streets and admiring the view and quirky buildings.
Having too much fun at lunch. We stopped at a great little restaurant on the edge of the hill, and had wonderful food. Coconut mahi mahi skewers, crab pastry, cold beer, pisco sours, and Lucema ice cream for dessert.
The view down a street in Valparaiso.
Cute blonde baby who is our ticket to a seat on the subway.Thursday, October 16, 2008
la comida
I have a lot of things to say about the people in Chile, but one thing's for sure: you cannot generally dislike a people who eat as much ice cream as they do. When I go out to run errands in the afternoon, people everywhere are carrying ice cream cones. Big ones. The ice cream is good, too. You can get the standard European crap that you buy on the street-junk on a stick w/ a chocolate coating, but there are also an abundance of ice cream shops like the ones in Italy-with seemingly neverending rows of huge vats of various flavors. The trick for me is to remember to pay before I spend a lot of time salivating over what I want, and then have the person doing the scooping point me to the register. But alas, the wait is worth it. They heap creamy, flavorful, colorful portions onto a waffle. And it doesn't melt fast, so you can spend time enjoying it. So people here may drive like assholes, and talk waayyy too quickly, but they do appreciate their helado. Which makes me fit in just a little bit.
There are not, however, a lot of pizza places, relatively speaking. And when you ask people what the best pizza is, you generally get the same answer: "Dominoes." Which made us cringe, because compared to a lot of pizza places in the US, Dominoes sucks. But here, it doesn't. The wings, which are kind of spicy, and kind of sweet, are wonderful. The toppings are heaped to the edge of the pizza, until there's almost no crust. And the ingredients are pretty fresh. So, live and learn. A restaurant that sucks somewhere else may actually be pretty good here. Although I'm not holding my breath about Pizza Hut.
Of course, we are making an effort to eat the local food as well. We drove through the mountains last weekend and sampled the homemade empanadas that can be found along the road, designated by white flags. We discovered that we do not like one of the common ones, called pino, which has ground beef, olives, eggs, onions, and spices. It just tastes weird. I think it's the olives, which aren't really to my liking. I go w/ the straight cheese empanadas. Fried-good. Cheese-good. Fried stuff w/ cheese-gooooood.
So I don't bore people half to death (or starvation), here's a quick summary of what else I have discovered about Chilean food: produce-good; bread-good (very fresh-you have to watch people waiting for the fresh bread to be put in the bins, and then stampede w/ them to get it); wine-good and cheap; pisco-ditto ($3 a bottle!); baby fo0d-not good-no veggies and sugar added to everything. I've had to go all granola and start making my own.
When I get back to the US next June, I am going to have a meal of: Diet Dr. Pepper, Chicago-style pizza, Calamata Olives, Bourbon, and cheesecake.
While you are gorging yourselves on Thanksgiving, please think of me, cause there's no Stove Top to be found, no pumpkins for pies, and certainly no giant, giant turkeys. But maybe I'll learn how to make empanadas, then go out for ice cream...
There are not, however, a lot of pizza places, relatively speaking. And when you ask people what the best pizza is, you generally get the same answer: "Dominoes." Which made us cringe, because compared to a lot of pizza places in the US, Dominoes sucks. But here, it doesn't. The wings, which are kind of spicy, and kind of sweet, are wonderful. The toppings are heaped to the edge of the pizza, until there's almost no crust. And the ingredients are pretty fresh. So, live and learn. A restaurant that sucks somewhere else may actually be pretty good here. Although I'm not holding my breath about Pizza Hut.
Of course, we are making an effort to eat the local food as well. We drove through the mountains last weekend and sampled the homemade empanadas that can be found along the road, designated by white flags. We discovered that we do not like one of the common ones, called pino, which has ground beef, olives, eggs, onions, and spices. It just tastes weird. I think it's the olives, which aren't really to my liking. I go w/ the straight cheese empanadas. Fried-good. Cheese-good. Fried stuff w/ cheese-gooooood.
So I don't bore people half to death (or starvation), here's a quick summary of what else I have discovered about Chilean food: produce-good; bread-good (very fresh-you have to watch people waiting for the fresh bread to be put in the bins, and then stampede w/ them to get it); wine-good and cheap; pisco-ditto ($3 a bottle!); baby fo0d-not good-no veggies and sugar added to everything. I've had to go all granola and start making my own.
When I get back to the US next June, I am going to have a meal of: Diet Dr. Pepper, Chicago-style pizza, Calamata Olives, Bourbon, and cheesecake.
While you are gorging yourselves on Thanksgiving, please think of me, cause there's no Stove Top to be found, no pumpkins for pies, and certainly no giant, giant turkeys. But maybe I'll learn how to make empanadas, then go out for ice cream...
Monday, October 13, 2008
ibamos de santiago
For those of you who don't know, we have acquired the "mammals" over the years (the chicken was a cat toy, but then became an honorary mammal). We take them everywhere, and take amusing (to us, at least), pictures of them all over the world. They have been to Rome (took toga pix at Colloseum), Morocco (they rode the camels), Hawaii (to the telescope and hiking), London, Norway, Paris (top of Eiffel Tower), and all over the States.Here the chicken is mocking the encaged birds who will never feel his joy of freedom.
Here are all the mammals in front of chicken cages. The Monkey almost always wears his red turban. The Rabbit did have a UCLA shirt, but we think it got lost in the move. He's moved on, anyway: "Go Dodgers!"
Stuartt and Vivi looking at the goats
Jenn and Vivi by the river (it was a bit chilly).We took a drive into the Rio de Maipo valley this past Saturday to get out of
the city for a fewhours. Unfortunately for us, the guidebook we have (Insight) has the worst maps ever, so it wasn't totally clear how to get there. We took the longest possible route, but eventually arrived in a canyon with a nice view of the river and of the high mountains.
We found a park to have lunch in, which seemed like it might have great potential (cafeteria, zoo, playground). So we paid our $10 (a bit steep!) and headed in to the zoo. It had chickens, goats, one llama, and some sheep (so not really a zoo, but Vivi did enjoy it). Then we went to the cafeteria, but right next to it there was a soccer field, with people playing soccer, and BLASTING music. Not exactly our idea of a tranquil mountain outting. (And it unfortunately reminded us of weekends in the parks in LA-a bunch of people playing soccer and blasting music:(
So we drove on, stopping in the main town in the canyon to buy fruit (for Vivi) and empanadas (for ourselves). We got the del horno (baked) kind, cheese and pino. We mistook pino for pina (pineapple) and were surprised when we got meat instead of fruit. Later Mr. Google told us that pino empanadas have ground beef, olives, cheese, hard-boiled egg, onions, and certain spices, like cumin. I do NOT like them, though I will eat them if excessively hungry. I prefer just plain ole queso ones. On the way back, we felt a bit cheated, because we only ate 2 of the 4 small ones we had bought, and didn't want the pino ones, and are relatively inexpensive, so we stopped to get more. This time, no horno, which means they were fried. They were made fresh, stuffed with cheese, crispy, hot, and very good.
We also stopped by the side of the road and walked down to the river. There was a manual cable car that you could sit it and pull yourself across in. I might have done it by myself but 1.) not w/ a baby and 2.) it was locked. So we just walked along the river a bit, and noticed that all the good stopping points for cars are also good stopping points for trash-dumpers. So one can enjoy the beauty of nature, as long as that person is willing to ignore the occassional slide of refuse down the hillside.
Our drive home was much easier, as we could figure out the map this time. We thought about stopping at some of the white flags (signal for homemade goods, such as empanadas, bread, or jams), but we were quite full of cheese empanadas, it was a cool, cloudy day, and it was getting cooler. So we headed for the warmth of our **home**.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
case dulce casa en santiago
Spending some quality time w/ kitty cat (before she runs away). I'm trying to teach Vivi "nice," which I think she understands but doesn't like. She would rather grab fur. Poor Bunny. She knows that when I say, "Kitty cat!" she'd better look out for little hands.
Exploring all that there is to see-outlets, heaters, and all.
Playing in the living room. It has a nice big window that Vivi likes to pound on and the cat likes to look out. We have used the 2 couches to make a baby-containing area. When she gets tired of being in there, she stands at the corner and hoots.
Hanging out in the front yard. A gardener comes every day to spruce things up.
Bunny checking out yard of house we're staying in. It's actually part of a hotel, but it's nice to have more space.
Bunny reading up on doing some sightseeing.
Having desayuno at the hotel. Vivi likes to flirt w/ the waiters. I encourage it. It gives me time to get my coffee.
Eating oranges in the stroller before we bought a highchair. Very, very, very, very messy.
pix from the move
Bunny roaming in our (sadly) empty Pasadena apartment. It was pretty small, and not structurally perfect, but it was home for 7 years.
We crammed all of our stuff (that wasn't on the slow boat to Santiago) into our car, fit the carseat in, stuffed the cat under the seat, and headed to LAX. Vivi seemed to think it was just another car ride, but Bunny somehow knew that something more ominous than just a ride up the street to the vet loomed.
Vivi and Bunny (in black bag next to stroller) and all of our stuff, ready to be loaded on the plane (after we re-arranged stuff in our suitcases, we only had to pay $300 for extra and heavy bags).
Vivi took the opportunity during our 2 hour layover in Atlanta to roll around on the floor in the airport. We encouraged it. We were hoping she'd work off some energy and sleep during the 9 hour flight to Santiago.
The cat was not so exuberant at the airport. We offered her food and water, and she looked at us like she would rather kill us than eat. But, she made it okay, with the help of some kitty prozac.
Ah, the power and wonder of Benadryl. Others, in horror: "You drugged your baby?" Me, matter-of-factly: "Damn right. Read my lips: 9 hour flight"Visiting the Persa
Last weekend we went to the Persa. It is a giant, giant, giant flea market that makes the Rose Bowl flea market look like a yard sale (though it's not in as nice an area). It is four blocks long, and two blocks wide. Warehouses, and some small shops, contain everything you could probably ever need. We mostly looked at furniture and clothes, and then decided that we wouldn't want anything made of cloth (couch, chairs, etc.) from there, because those things would smell like the place, which is a combination of dirty water, cooking food (people walk around w/ shopping carts that have big buckets of cooking oil, and they put a grill across the top of the shopping cart to cook meat), smoke, and lots and lots of people, some of whom bathe regularly. There are also tools, pets (we heard them but never saw them), electronics, car pieces, belts, shoes, toys, perfume, soaps, and, well, basically everything. You can also get a haircut, but the guy who does them doesn't sweep the floor until the end of the day, so you have to sit amidst piles of black hair on the floor.Most things aren't market w/ a price, but some are. Bargaining is expected. We just walked around and took it all in. Vivi LOVED it, because there was so much for her to see. People talked to her constantly, and one lady even took her picture (should have charged her a quarter).
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
People are nice, except at Supermercado
I have discovered that the one gauranteed way to ruin my day is to go to the supermercado to buy groceries. I have been to 4 different stores, in 4 different places, and they all are full of people who are dumbfounded by how stupid I am to be living here and not have better Spanish. I am starting to get used to the systems, like going to a counter to get your bread and produce weighed, and getting a number ticket at the deli counter (and cheese counter, and fish, etc.) What I'm not used to is that they say the number superfast and not very loud and if you don't shove down everyone around you and sprint up w/ your ticket, they go to the next number. No sopa parati! On the few occassions that I have been aggressive enough to get waited on, I am then stymied by them askingmereallyreallyquicklywhatdoIwantwhichkindofhamwhichonesmokedornot? and I stand there, looking and feeling stupid, and just point and say, "Esto, por favor?" and then they ask me something else, reallyreallyfast, and I just say, "Esto, por favor?" until they tire of me and give me esto.
Luckily, however, all the mean people seem to be working in the supermercados all day, because people on the street and in most other places are really nice. I went shopping for Futon mattresses the other day, and was doing really well understanding the guy there, because he didn't ask me whatdoyouwantreallyreallyquickly, and this lady comes over and starts talking to me in English. I was like, No, no English, por favor! Necesito a practicar Espanol! Necesito a practicar mucho! And she laughed and spoke to me in Spanish (mostly).
The people at the hotel have been really nice, and they use slightly more complicated words every day. They make faces at Vivi at desayuno, and don't make a big deal about the mess she makes.
I also did not get lost yesterday. First day since we've been here. I had to drive around with the map in my lap, and stop every mile or 2 to check it, but I am starting to understand the cluster of streets that pass for the insanity that is driving here.
I have also learned a lesson about buying things. I have been accustomed to return policies that require a receipt, sometimes within a certain amount of time of purchase. Don't like it? Return it. Doesn't fit? Return it. Cat threw up on it? Wipe it off and return it. Here, no such luck. Give us your address and phone number, and the item back, and we might send you money. Next month. Call us if you haven't heard in 2. So I'm hesitant to buy a cup of coffee. If it has rat poison in it and I get deathly ill? Too bad! You bought it!
So now I'm off to fill in my absentee ballot. I can't say that the debates last night (thank god for cnn) were impressive, but I'll be damned if I'm letting Ohio pick another dumbass for president.
Hasta manana,
JE
Luckily, however, all the mean people seem to be working in the supermercados all day, because people on the street and in most other places are really nice. I went shopping for Futon mattresses the other day, and was doing really well understanding the guy there, because he didn't ask me whatdoyouwantreallyreallyquickly, and this lady comes over and starts talking to me in English. I was like, No, no English, por favor! Necesito a practicar Espanol! Necesito a practicar mucho! And she laughed and spoke to me in Spanish (mostly).
The people at the hotel have been really nice, and they use slightly more complicated words every day. They make faces at Vivi at desayuno, and don't make a big deal about the mess she makes.
I also did not get lost yesterday. First day since we've been here. I had to drive around with the map in my lap, and stop every mile or 2 to check it, but I am starting to understand the cluster of streets that pass for the insanity that is driving here.
I have also learned a lesson about buying things. I have been accustomed to return policies that require a receipt, sometimes within a certain amount of time of purchase. Don't like it? Return it. Doesn't fit? Return it. Cat threw up on it? Wipe it off and return it. Here, no such luck. Give us your address and phone number, and the item back, and we might send you money. Next month. Call us if you haven't heard in 2. So I'm hesitant to buy a cup of coffee. If it has rat poison in it and I get deathly ill? Too bad! You bought it!
So now I'm off to fill in my absentee ballot. I can't say that the debates last night (thank god for cnn) were impressive, but I'll be damned if I'm letting Ohio pick another dumbass for president.
Hasta manana,
JE
Thursday, October 2, 2008
feeling displaced
It's difficult to pinpoint exactly what it is that is making me feel displaced. Could be that people dress up for everything here, including going to the market for pan y leche. Could be that they use a fork and knife to eat everything, including sandwiches. Could be because people talk at seeming lightning speed, whereas I understand what I hear at sloth speed. I feel like I am underdressed, even when I wear nice pants and a shirt. I feel like a neanderthal when I eat. Today I ate a burrito at the mall, and I swear I could hear 1/2 the food court snickering at me. I hadn't got a fork with my food, because I never use a fork to eat a burrito, but I felt self-conscious about it. Then I decided that it was just too much effort to wind my way back through all the tables in the food court, with a stroller and a tray of food, to get a fork. So I just tried to finish quickly, to silent the snickering, but I think that made it louder because then I was eating like a ravenous neanderthal. Ah, well. At least I couldn't understand any of the comments people made around me. And Vivi made a bigger mess eating her arrowroot cookie, so maybe I didn't look that bad.
Hoping to find the Chilean version of Miss Manners soon to learn some Espanol, and how to eat a sandwich with a fork.
Hoping to find the Chilean version of Miss Manners soon to learn some Espanol, and how to eat a sandwich with a fork.
food courts, traffic, and parking
So I went to the mall AGAIN because 1. I know where it is and 2. It has stuff I need. I went to get a baby carrier, like a bjorn, because I lost mine at Santa Monica Beach before we left (que lastima!) and I really liked it. We are planning on going to the Persa (huge market) this weekend, which won't be a good place for a stroller, so I want to have it for that.
Let me say that just getting to the mall is an adventure in itself because traffic here is INSANE. Makes Los Angeles seem like the wide open prairie. First, every major intersection is actually a roundabout, with cars, buses, and taxis going in and out with no warning (by that I mean signal, hand gesture, anything). There are rules, like lanes for just taxis and buses, but it's the right lane, so any cars that are turning right, at any of the many, many streets, are in that lane as well. I have yet to figure out any rhyme or reason to the parking areas. Many of the lanes for parking in a lot are dead-end, and it seems to be random as to which way traffic can go. One thing that I am struggling to get used to is that you have to pay for parking before you get to the exit, by taking your ticket to a pay kiosk, somewhere in the mall, and getting your ticket validated. It's most unfortunate to remember that you haven't done this when you've loaded a sleeping baby into the car, with lots of groceries (there's a mercado at the mall!) and you're at the exit, with tons of cars behind you. All you can do at that point is be the stupid gringo and back up (permiso! lo siento!)
So I got the baby carrier, which was $40, which isn't much. Then we (Vivi and I) went to the food court. I went to Taco Bell because Laura Perez-from here-told me about the really great cheese empanadas you can get as a side w/ your burrito (instead of fries-at Taco Bell!) I got them and have to say they were pretty tasty. Then got a frozen yogurt so Vivi could have some fruit (they blend it in fresh). She made a face at the cold at first, but then liked it. Which means she figured out how to turn around in her stoller and stand up, while buckled in, so she could open her mouth like a little bird so I could shovel more yogurt in.
We got groceries, had our traffic debaucle, and then finally left the mall parking area. Then we got lost. For an hour and a half. I once told a friend (Hi, Judy! Miss you!) that the good thing about being lost is, you're not going to be lost forever. Lucky for me, Vivi was entertained by me singing the Moo, Baa, Laa, Laa, Laa song, and then went to sleep. I did get a good view of the mountains, found another mall, and saw a horse-drawn cart almost get creamed by a taxi. And I didn't stay lost forever. Just for an hour and a half. We finally got home, and unloaded the groceries, and then I realized I had forgotten matches, which meant I couldn't cook dinner (all burners have to be individually lit). But I had bought pisco ($3!!!) and chocolate cookies at the market, so all was not lost.
Let me say that just getting to the mall is an adventure in itself because traffic here is INSANE. Makes Los Angeles seem like the wide open prairie. First, every major intersection is actually a roundabout, with cars, buses, and taxis going in and out with no warning (by that I mean signal, hand gesture, anything). There are rules, like lanes for just taxis and buses, but it's the right lane, so any cars that are turning right, at any of the many, many streets, are in that lane as well. I have yet to figure out any rhyme or reason to the parking areas. Many of the lanes for parking in a lot are dead-end, and it seems to be random as to which way traffic can go. One thing that I am struggling to get used to is that you have to pay for parking before you get to the exit, by taking your ticket to a pay kiosk, somewhere in the mall, and getting your ticket validated. It's most unfortunate to remember that you haven't done this when you've loaded a sleeping baby into the car, with lots of groceries (there's a mercado at the mall!) and you're at the exit, with tons of cars behind you. All you can do at that point is be the stupid gringo and back up (permiso! lo siento!)
So I got the baby carrier, which was $40, which isn't much. Then we (Vivi and I) went to the food court. I went to Taco Bell because Laura Perez-from here-told me about the really great cheese empanadas you can get as a side w/ your burrito (instead of fries-at Taco Bell!) I got them and have to say they were pretty tasty. Then got a frozen yogurt so Vivi could have some fruit (they blend it in fresh). She made a face at the cold at first, but then liked it. Which means she figured out how to turn around in her stoller and stand up, while buckled in, so she could open her mouth like a little bird so I could shovel more yogurt in.
We got groceries, had our traffic debaucle, and then finally left the mall parking area. Then we got lost. For an hour and a half. I once told a friend (Hi, Judy! Miss you!) that the good thing about being lost is, you're not going to be lost forever. Lucky for me, Vivi was entertained by me singing the Moo, Baa, Laa, Laa, Laa song, and then went to sleep. I did get a good view of the mountains, found another mall, and saw a horse-drawn cart almost get creamed by a taxi. And I didn't stay lost forever. Just for an hour and a half. We finally got home, and unloaded the groceries, and then I realized I had forgotten matches, which meant I couldn't cook dinner (all burners have to be individually lit). But I had bought pisco ($3!!!) and chocolate cookies at the market, so all was not lost.
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
broke down at the mercado
I feel like I've been doing okay with Spanish. By okay I mean that I use the sentence structure of the average Spanish-speaking 4-year-old. I feel like I use the same verbs over and over. Puedo? Can I? Tienes? You have? I am working on past and future tenses, so the people here don't think I am some whacko living in my own one-dimensional world that only happens in the present.
I was at the grocery store, the Lider Express, if you will, buying the usual things-baby wipes, water, coke zero, fresh bread, fruit. I asked where the artificial sugar was and the hombre I asked pointed to the aisle with just sugar. I know I said artificial. And I know it was the right word. But I had to look in every aisle until I found it myself. Then at the checkout the woman scanning my stuff asked if I had a discount card. I told her now, but como puedo tener una tarjeta? She sent me to the customer service desk. They sent me somewhere else. The people there sent me somewhere else. And I know this happens everywhere, but after I had hauled all my bags and pushed the stroller all over the store looking for freaking sweet-n-low, and then got sent to 3 different places, and then the people at the place where you actually apply for the discount card spoke very, very, very quickly, and looked at my visa card, and told me a bunch of stuff about it (maybe that they thought I was a crazy, one-dimensional person? Who knows?) I was like, Entonces, necesito otra tarjeta para tener esto tarjeta? Si o no? Si. Necesito otra tarjeta que mi visa tarjeta.
I was so frustrated that I didn't understand, and I have to ask someone else now, and get a resident's card (I think???) to get a freaking grocery store discount card. But I learned this: I will never be impatient with someone who is in the US as a non-native English speaker ever. I know how frustrating it is that you can't even save the $.25 on some manzanas because you don't have the right card, and you don't understand enough to know what card you need or how to get it. All you know is your card es malo so you are paying full price for apples.
Did I mention that the baby had a melt-down in the azucar aisle while I was looking for sweet-n-low, and I had to open the yet-t0-be-purchased bottle of water to make her a bottle, and the guy who sent me to that aisle (wrongly!) came over to question if I was going to pay for it.
I'll just keep repeating what I said to him: NO INTIENDO!
I was at the grocery store, the Lider Express, if you will, buying the usual things-baby wipes, water, coke zero, fresh bread, fruit. I asked where the artificial sugar was and the hombre I asked pointed to the aisle with just sugar. I know I said artificial. And I know it was the right word. But I had to look in every aisle until I found it myself. Then at the checkout the woman scanning my stuff asked if I had a discount card. I told her now, but como puedo tener una tarjeta? She sent me to the customer service desk. They sent me somewhere else. The people there sent me somewhere else. And I know this happens everywhere, but after I had hauled all my bags and pushed the stroller all over the store looking for freaking sweet-n-low, and then got sent to 3 different places, and then the people at the place where you actually apply for the discount card spoke very, very, very quickly, and looked at my visa card, and told me a bunch of stuff about it (maybe that they thought I was a crazy, one-dimensional person? Who knows?) I was like, Entonces, necesito otra tarjeta para tener esto tarjeta? Si o no? Si. Necesito otra tarjeta que mi visa tarjeta.
I was so frustrated that I didn't understand, and I have to ask someone else now, and get a resident's card (I think???) to get a freaking grocery store discount card. But I learned this: I will never be impatient with someone who is in the US as a non-native English speaker ever. I know how frustrating it is that you can't even save the $.25 on some manzanas because you don't have the right card, and you don't understand enough to know what card you need or how to get it. All you know is your card es malo so you are paying full price for apples.
Did I mention that the baby had a melt-down in the azucar aisle while I was looking for sweet-n-low, and I had to open the yet-t0-be-purchased bottle of water to make her a bottle, and the guy who sent me to that aisle (wrongly!) came over to question if I was going to pay for it.
I'll just keep repeating what I said to him: NO INTIENDO!
Monday, September 29, 2008
baby stuff
They basically have the same stuff here for babies that there is in the US. I do really miss having a place like Target (as I thought I would), but there are quite a few stores that have baby items. The stores tend to be brand-specific, like Graco, or Fisher Price, so you can only buy that brand of stuff in one store. We went to buy a high chair (silla alta por ninos comer) and had the choice of a couple of brands, with price ranges from $75 to $300. We got an infanti, which was about $125. Of course, all the prices are in pesos, so I still have to translate it in my mind.
One thing I got at the mall here that I haven't seen before: a bottle and toy leash that attaches to the stroller, to help keep the bottle from being flung from the stroller every 20 seconds.
The things that are different: baby food is not just veggies/fruit and water. It's got citric acid, and sugar (sometimes the second ingredient!) in it. So yesterday we went to the Home Depot/Bed Bath and Beyond store (Sodimac) and got a food processor. The fruits and veggies here are good, and relatively cheap, so I'll just make baby food.
Juice also has lots of sugar, but I found some that doesn't by reading lots of labels. There are millions of kinds of yogurt, but most have lots of sugar and artificial flavoring in them. Or you can just get plain yogurt (which I think tastes horrible). So I will get that and blend fruit in it to make it more tasty. Again, food processor is going to get used a lot. It would be nice to be able to get yo baby, but oh well.
There is no Similac Sensitive (only Advance) so I brought a suitcase full of the Sensitive. Dr. said I could start switching her to milk at about 10 mos. so I can transition her before we run out of formula.
I also saw at a store a car seat that swivels so you can turn the baby towards the car door to take them out. I hadn't seen that in the US, but I hadn't looked for it, either.
Best place to buy baby clothes is at the grocery store. They have a clothes section, which isn't very big, but each piece was $3-4. Had to get more warm pajamas and long-sleeved stuff, because it gets cold here at night and in the evenings.
Probably the best thing about having a baby here is people are very enchanted w/ babies, especially little blonde and blue-eyes ones. Every time we got out, lots of people talk to her, rub her feet, and wave. She gets lots of smiles, so that's nice. Her first word may be "hola," "ciao," or "panal" (diaper)!
One thing I got at the mall here that I haven't seen before: a bottle and toy leash that attaches to the stroller, to help keep the bottle from being flung from the stroller every 20 seconds.
The things that are different: baby food is not just veggies/fruit and water. It's got citric acid, and sugar (sometimes the second ingredient!) in it. So yesterday we went to the Home Depot/Bed Bath and Beyond store (Sodimac) and got a food processor. The fruits and veggies here are good, and relatively cheap, so I'll just make baby food.
Juice also has lots of sugar, but I found some that doesn't by reading lots of labels. There are millions of kinds of yogurt, but most have lots of sugar and artificial flavoring in them. Or you can just get plain yogurt (which I think tastes horrible). So I will get that and blend fruit in it to make it more tasty. Again, food processor is going to get used a lot. It would be nice to be able to get yo baby, but oh well.
There is no Similac Sensitive (only Advance) so I brought a suitcase full of the Sensitive. Dr. said I could start switching her to milk at about 10 mos. so I can transition her before we run out of formula.
I also saw at a store a car seat that swivels so you can turn the baby towards the car door to take them out. I hadn't seen that in the US, but I hadn't looked for it, either.
Best place to buy baby clothes is at the grocery store. They have a clothes section, which isn't very big, but each piece was $3-4. Had to get more warm pajamas and long-sleeved stuff, because it gets cold here at night and in the evenings.
Probably the best thing about having a baby here is people are very enchanted w/ babies, especially little blonde and blue-eyes ones. Every time we got out, lots of people talk to her, rub her feet, and wave. She gets lots of smiles, so that's nice. Her first word may be "hola," "ciao," or "panal" (diaper)!
Had a long, frustrating day. Started ok, with hair-washing, finishing laundry, and a drive up above the city (tons of orange poppies; will send pix). Then went to mall. First let me say that people here take their clothing way too seriously. They were things like leather jacket (fitted, women's), long skirt, high heeled boots to mall. Men wear long khaki pants, sweater vests, and long-sleeved button down shirts. To mall. No shorts. No flip flops. I'm not sure I want to live in a culture where people dress for the mall like a wedding. Where are the jeans? Next, I know there are people here who are bigger than me. But the only size that fit is the next to biggest. And all pants are about 5 inches too long. Does everyone use a tailor?
We did find a bottle leash (attaches to stroller and bot) to help with Vivi's newfound game of dropping everything. But when clever girl undid fasteners on stroller end of bot leash, bot dragged on ground for a while in mall. Stuartt put bot on top of stroller, and later, when hungry girl cried, I shoved very dirty bot into mouth w/ out noticing dirt. Felt bad that lbs. of mall dirt are now in her tiny intestines. And we kept her out way too long because we spent way too long looking for giant clothes for ourselves, more warmer clothes for her (best place is grocery store???), and it takes forever to find anything at grocery store, because everything has its own section (bread, fish, cheese, meat, deli meat, water, wine, beer, etc) and I don't know where all the sections are yet. I did manage to order 2 lbs. of pavo pechuga because I thought that a kilo is 1/2 lb. instead of 2. So I guess we're going to eat lots of pavo pechuga sandwiches este semana.
Another odd thing-baby clothes here run large. Vivi couldn't wear 6 month sizes in the US, because they were too small, and here they are a bit big, but adult-size clothing runs small???? Are all the babies bigger than the world average, and then they grow into smaller-than-average adults?
One good thing-there is a store that is a combination of bed bath & beyond, home depot, osh, and a furniture store. So you can get lots of things in one place. Got a food processor to make baby food (why do they put sugar and citric acid in baby food?) and cat food (no fancy feast for poor beastie w/ only 1/2 her teeth). (That will also be a good use for all that pavo pechuga). it's also hard to find juice w/out added sugar, or yogurt w/out added sugar and other stuff.
Sigh. I am becoming a Californian a bit too late. Donde esta Whole Foods cuando tienes eso?
We did find a bottle leash (attaches to stroller and bot) to help with Vivi's newfound game of dropping everything. But when clever girl undid fasteners on stroller end of bot leash, bot dragged on ground for a while in mall. Stuartt put bot on top of stroller, and later, when hungry girl cried, I shoved very dirty bot into mouth w/ out noticing dirt. Felt bad that lbs. of mall dirt are now in her tiny intestines. And we kept her out way too long because we spent way too long looking for giant clothes for ourselves, more warmer clothes for her (best place is grocery store???), and it takes forever to find anything at grocery store, because everything has its own section (bread, fish, cheese, meat, deli meat, water, wine, beer, etc) and I don't know where all the sections are yet. I did manage to order 2 lbs. of pavo pechuga because I thought that a kilo is 1/2 lb. instead of 2. So I guess we're going to eat lots of pavo pechuga sandwiches este semana.
Another odd thing-baby clothes here run large. Vivi couldn't wear 6 month sizes in the US, because they were too small, and here they are a bit big, but adult-size clothing runs small???? Are all the babies bigger than the world average, and then they grow into smaller-than-average adults?
One good thing-there is a store that is a combination of bed bath & beyond, home depot, osh, and a furniture store. So you can get lots of things in one place. Got a food processor to make baby food (why do they put sugar and citric acid in baby food?) and cat food (no fancy feast for poor beastie w/ only 1/2 her teeth). (That will also be a good use for all that pavo pechuga). it's also hard to find juice w/out added sugar, or yogurt w/out added sugar and other stuff.
Sigh. I am becoming a Californian a bit too late. Donde esta Whole Foods cuando tienes eso?
Thursday, September 25, 2008
spending lots of $$$
The last few days, we've walked around the city in the area near our hotel, and noticed that many things are the same as in the US. There are gas stations with snacks (though you can buy wine at them, too), many of the same restaurants (Subway, McDonald's, Ruby Tuesday's, Tony Romas, TGIFridays, Starbuck's, and more, and many of the same shops and products (Tommy Hilfiger, Puma, Nike, Graco (we're looking for a high chair), Wilson sports, etc. (Sadly, still no sight of a Target).
The other thing that's basically the same is prices. We went to the mall yesterday to go to the home store (basically Home Depot) to buy a fan-to make white noise for Vivi at night, to block out traffic sounds). Jeans are $30-$50. Baby clothes are anywhere from a few bucks to $20 a piece. Groceries are a bit cheaper, with fresh items such as bread or produce being cheap, but packaged items like olive oil or pasta, are more.
Our rent will be slightly less, but for a bigger and much nicer place than the one we had in LA.
We did have 1 pretty small bedroom, a tiny kitchen, living room, dining room barely big enough for a table, and a smallish bath. Now, we will have 3 bedrooms, 1 medium and 2 small, a living and dining room (medium), a sizable kitchen (all the kitchens here are long and narrow), 2 baths and a beautiful view of the Andes (whereas view before was of delapitated fence or brick wall).
I guess the reason we've noticed these things is that we were told "you can live like kings there with a decent salary." It's not that we'll be living like bums, but there seems to be a misconception that everywhere else in the world is cheaper than the US. Some places, yes: Turkey, Serbia, Peru. Others not so much. We were surprised that things cost as much as they did in Belize, Morocco, and now here. Maybe we just haven't found the less expensive places yet. Maybe we've been getting the "gringo rate." But one thing's for sure: it can't be more expensive than LA.
The other thing that's basically the same is prices. We went to the mall yesterday to go to the home store (basically Home Depot) to buy a fan-to make white noise for Vivi at night, to block out traffic sounds). Jeans are $30-$50. Baby clothes are anywhere from a few bucks to $20 a piece. Groceries are a bit cheaper, with fresh items such as bread or produce being cheap, but packaged items like olive oil or pasta, are more.
Our rent will be slightly less, but for a bigger and much nicer place than the one we had in LA.
We did have 1 pretty small bedroom, a tiny kitchen, living room, dining room barely big enough for a table, and a smallish bath. Now, we will have 3 bedrooms, 1 medium and 2 small, a living and dining room (medium), a sizable kitchen (all the kitchens here are long and narrow), 2 baths and a beautiful view of the Andes (whereas view before was of delapitated fence or brick wall).
I guess the reason we've noticed these things is that we were told "you can live like kings there with a decent salary." It's not that we'll be living like bums, but there seems to be a misconception that everywhere else in the world is cheaper than the US. Some places, yes: Turkey, Serbia, Peru. Others not so much. We were surprised that things cost as much as they did in Belize, Morocco, and now here. Maybe we just haven't found the less expensive places yet. Maybe we've been getting the "gringo rate." But one thing's for sure: it can't be more expensive than LA.
Monday, September 22, 2008
flights and arrival
Flying with a 7-month-old and a cat was not as bad as I had anticipated. The key to this success was drugs. Benadryl for the baby (1/2 tsp. for a 21 lb. baby, if anyone is interested) and vet prescribed kitty valium for the cat. Vivi slept most of the whole night, and the cat only made a little noise when we were almost done w/ the second flight.
I usually don't use a travel agent, and now I remember why. She originally booked us flights with an hour layover in Atlanta, which seemed too short. So I had her change it so we had 2 hours, but she didn't book us in seats that time. So we had to beg people (por favor, por favor) to change seats so we could sit together.
The asshole SAG guy didn't want to let poor Bunny into the country when we went through customs because we didn't have one particular form. I was pissed, because I called the Chilean condulate, the USDA, and SAG before we left, and no one ever said a damn word about this form. So I freaked out on him, he quickly tired of me, and called over some other guy who didn't care and let us through.
We are living in a hotel suite, which is basically a small 3 bedroom house, until we find an apartment. Stuartt's work is paying for it, so that's nice. They are also paying someone to take us around and show us how to do stuff, like buy a car, get an apartment, and even buy cat litter. It feels kind of excessive, but if they want to pay someone to wipe our asses for us, who am I to complain?
Yesterday we went to the supermercado to get groceries. It is mostly cheaper here, but some things, like baby carrots, are a lot more. The bread and produce has a special counter for being weighed before you go to checkout. There are also lockers, like at amusement parks. My Spanish wasn't good enough to explain that I wanted to sign up for a discount card, but I'm working on it. Peope speak more English than I expected, though, so I may have to insist that they speak in Spanish so I can get better.
Today we went to the mall to get pictures for our Chilean ID's. We also bought cat litter and a scoop, cat food, and some stuff at the Mac computer store. There is a TGI Fridays and a Tony Romas at the mall, and a lot of the same stores that there are in the US. The mall is very nice, and very clean. The people who are helping us with stuff insist that it's not more expensive to shop at the mall, and until we have a car, we won't be able to do much price-comparing.
Tomorrow we go apartment-hunting. Hopefully we will find something that suits the needs of us, the bebe, and la gata.
Mas Tarde,
Jenn
I usually don't use a travel agent, and now I remember why. She originally booked us flights with an hour layover in Atlanta, which seemed too short. So I had her change it so we had 2 hours, but she didn't book us in seats that time. So we had to beg people (por favor, por favor) to change seats so we could sit together.
The asshole SAG guy didn't want to let poor Bunny into the country when we went through customs because we didn't have one particular form. I was pissed, because I called the Chilean condulate, the USDA, and SAG before we left, and no one ever said a damn word about this form. So I freaked out on him, he quickly tired of me, and called over some other guy who didn't care and let us through.
We are living in a hotel suite, which is basically a small 3 bedroom house, until we find an apartment. Stuartt's work is paying for it, so that's nice. They are also paying someone to take us around and show us how to do stuff, like buy a car, get an apartment, and even buy cat litter. It feels kind of excessive, but if they want to pay someone to wipe our asses for us, who am I to complain?
Yesterday we went to the supermercado to get groceries. It is mostly cheaper here, but some things, like baby carrots, are a lot more. The bread and produce has a special counter for being weighed before you go to checkout. There are also lockers, like at amusement parks. My Spanish wasn't good enough to explain that I wanted to sign up for a discount card, but I'm working on it. Peope speak more English than I expected, though, so I may have to insist that they speak in Spanish so I can get better.
Today we went to the mall to get pictures for our Chilean ID's. We also bought cat litter and a scoop, cat food, and some stuff at the Mac computer store. There is a TGI Fridays and a Tony Romas at the mall, and a lot of the same stores that there are in the US. The mall is very nice, and very clean. The people who are helping us with stuff insist that it's not more expensive to shop at the mall, and until we have a car, we won't be able to do much price-comparing.
Tomorrow we go apartment-hunting. Hopefully we will find something that suits the needs of us, the bebe, and la gata.
Mas Tarde,
Jenn
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Getting Ready to Go
It's T minus 4 days until we leave. Starvation Army comes today to pick up some stuff, and then the movers are here tomorrow to load everything that goes south. After that, we'll be sleeping on our flattened futon mattress on the floor until Saturday, when we load up Vivi and Bunny and head to the airport. (I actually feel bad for whoever sits in front of us. I can hear it now: "You have a cat and a baby? Uh, can I move? To the wing?")
Since we found out they don't have Similac Sensitive in Chile, I bought $500 worth of formula to take with us. Stuartt think's I'm insane, but the last thing I want is a baby in a foreign country with an upset stomach.
We also found out that we have to have a USDA Veterinarian certificate for Bunny, although no one in any position of authority knows this (including the USDA). We learned from a woman who moved to Chile several years ago that they will try to deport any animals without one. So tomorrow morning I'm driving to the USDA office to convince them to stamp a form they don't think I need. But I am NOT putting my cat on a boat to sail to god know's where. So we're getting the form.
Things I will miss about the good ol' US: drive-throughs, huge drinks with lots of ice, commercialized holidays (especially Halloween), Target, college football (go Jayhawks!), college basketball (course, it will be another 20 years until another Hawks championship), baseball playoffs (go Angels and Dodgers!) Gray's Anatomy (have to watch it online;)
But my Spanish will get a lot better, and it will be an enriching culture experience (even more than watching sports and going to Target).
Mas Tarde,
Since we found out they don't have Similac Sensitive in Chile, I bought $500 worth of formula to take with us. Stuartt think's I'm insane, but the last thing I want is a baby in a foreign country with an upset stomach.
We also found out that we have to have a USDA Veterinarian certificate for Bunny, although no one in any position of authority knows this (including the USDA). We learned from a woman who moved to Chile several years ago that they will try to deport any animals without one. So tomorrow morning I'm driving to the USDA office to convince them to stamp a form they don't think I need. But I am NOT putting my cat on a boat to sail to god know's where. So we're getting the form.
Things I will miss about the good ol' US: drive-throughs, huge drinks with lots of ice, commercialized holidays (especially Halloween), Target, college football (go Jayhawks!), college basketball (course, it will be another 20 years until another Hawks championship), baseball playoffs (go Angels and Dodgers!) Gray's Anatomy (have to watch it online;)
But my Spanish will get a lot better, and it will be an enriching culture experience (even more than watching sports and going to Target).
Mas Tarde,
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
